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FAWDCWA – Dirk Hartog Island (April 2021)

Freedom All Wheel Drive Club of WA endeavours to hold at least one trip each month including day trips, social outings and extended camping trips. This trip to Dirk Hartog Island is one of many over the years, including Karara Rangelands, Ravensthorpe, Mellembye and Melangata station stays and Mount Augustus.

FAWDCWA had been preparing for this trip to Dirk Hartog Island for some months and it was with some excitement that on Tuesday the 20th April 2021, we all headed for Galena Bridge, which was the prearranged meeting place. Passing through Geraldton just after midday, the trip leader was congratulating himself  on their progress when the wheel fell off the trolley, well actually three studs sheared on the rear wheel to be precise and the car developed a very pronounced wobble. It was time for lunch anyway so the damaged wheel was removed, the spare fitted and a tow truck called from  Geraldton. Other members arrived  and gave  moral support before proceeding to Galena Bridge. At 5:05 we were back on the road with no usable spare and a considerably lighter pocket, arriving at Galena Bridge at 6:15 where everyone pitched in to help erect the tent and cook dinner. By 7:00pm our day was complete and we were all looking forward to the next day of this exciting trip.

The next morning (Wednesday) we were all packed up and on the road by 9:20. After comparing fuel prices we all topped up at Billabong Roadhouse, which was far less expensive than Overlander. After the previous day’s convulsive start, today was a leisurely run to the overnight camp at Hamelin Station. The original plan was to drive to and camp at Steep Point, but cyclone Seroja had closed the Steep Point road and campsites. This Station stay has excellent ablutions and camp kitchen and we all had a relaxing evening.

Thursday morning the park was still closed, but we had permission to drive through to the embarkation point. Because of the extra distance involved we allowed an extra 3 hours to make the journey. The Hamelin Station management suggested we allow 4 hours which we did and finally covered the distance in a little over 4 hours 20 mins. This was our first introduction to the corrugations which continued relentlessly for the rest of the trip

We aired down to 20 psi as recommended by the Steep Point Rangers but to be honest I think we could have gone a little lower. The convoy leader’s radio decided to turn itself off which resulted in a high speed chase (about 45 km/h) on the corrugated road to eventually catch and stop him. Radio communication restored, we continued, being tested from time to time by detours around sand blowouts from cyclone Seroja.

The barge was running a little over 2 hours late so we joined a queue and ate lunch until we were finally transferred over to the island. One of the group celebrated his arrival on the island by driving off the barge and getting bogged. The other members were quick to assist and we continued onto our allocated campsite.

We left one by one as the next car arrived, so there were always two cars on the beach in case of trouble. It was a one hour drive to Jed’s camp, over what was to become the norm, a corrugated road.

Jeds camp is a beautiful spot overlooking Homestead bay. We saw sea birds, dolphins, fish and a magic sunset. One member threatened a large flathead but failed to catch it. We set up our tents, sat and swam in the water and cooked and sat around in the camp kitchen. Hot showers rounded off the day perfectly.

Friday arrived with a beautiful sunrise with a few white clouds. After a walk to the office to confirm Sunset tour times and boarding time for Sunday, we embarked on a tour of Surf Beach and the Blowholes. We headed out over the now obligatory corrugations to Surf Beach. The last part of this drive was through some fairly heavy sand hills, so it was undertaken one vehicle at a time, calling the next vehicle through as the stage was completed. There were no issues or problems.

After spending some time sightseeing and snorkelling, we returned to the intersection and turned toward the Blowholes. The first half of the Blowholes track was the usual corrugated sand track, but the second half provided a large sand hill completely devoid of vegetation, which then turned to a rocky cliff top drive. The Blowholes were working and after watching for a while, we set up and had lunch.

Returning to our camp, we had another swim and prepared for the Australia’s Last Sunset tour led by Casey from DHI Experience. This involved travelling in convoy to Herald Heights Cliffs to watch the sun set. Returning in the dark was interesting to say the least. Out Tail end Charlie took a wrong fork at one stage and we all waited until he regained the track. In all fairness, the DHI convoy procedure was not quite what we are used to in our club, consisting of “hi guys, follow me” with little or no radio guidance given and a fairly high pace. Overall the sunset tour was magnificent though. We all returned to camp to the normal chat, shower, tidy up routine and bed.

The next morning we headed to the distant end of the Island to see Cape Inscription and the lighthouse. Cape inscription is where Dirk Hartog landed in 1616, and nailed an inscribed plate to a post. This place is now marked with a monument telling the story.

There is a lighthouse and abandoned buildings at the Cape, and the buildings are being restored and used as accommodation for research groups. Our plan was to then go to Turtle Bay for lunch, but we found the beach had been washed away and it was very rocky, not leaving much room for parking so we pushed on to Dampier’s Landing and had lunch in the car park at 12.30. This entry to the beach was also roped off to vehicles as there were turtle eggs on the beach. After lunch we headed back to base to prepare for dinner and some packing in readiness to leave after the dawn service the next day. Arriving a little after 4pm we could not resist a swim though.

The following morning we awoke in time to head up to the homestead for ANZAC dawn service. A combined effort from the Island staff, and various holiday makers, predominantly our club and Geraldton 4 wheel drive club saw us observe the rising of the sun followed by Anzac biscuits freshly baked by the DHI staff. Watching the dawn in this small group, knowing that the large Anzac ceremony in Perth had been cancelled due to Covid, was actually quite moving.

By 7.45 am we were all on the CoRrUgAtIoNs heading for the barge. We were booked for 9AM and arrived just a bit early at about 8.30.  There were four vehicles that had been booked in for 8am still there. Oh well. We took some photos and flew kites until our turn came up, about 1030. We were the first of our group so on arrival we hit the water. It was after 1230 when everyone was across. A quick drive up to Steep Point for more photos and then we were on our way home, around 2pm. As it was obvious we were not going to get back to Hamelin Station until dark we reduced the pace and arrived just after 6pm. The trip was called at this stage but all members stayed overnight before heading in their various directions the following morning.

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